Friday, April 15, 2011

Prague (Not Pictured)



Okay, so obviously I do have some pictures of Prague.  Lots of pictures of Prague.  I took them on my first layover on my way to Zagreb.  But, thanks to my picture-snapping frenzy in Plitvice Park, my camera died before I left Croatia.  And, since it was a Sunday when I arrived back in the Czech Republic, like most cities in Europe, Prague was mostly dead, and even finding an instant camera proved less than simple.  (So, keep in mind as you look at the following pictures that they have absolutely nothing to do with what I'm writing about.  But they're pretty.)


Having seen the Old Town Square and its much-famed clock on my first layover, I headed for Prague Castle for my second excursion into the city.  The Castle, I hate to say, looked nothing like a castle to me, and I was likely not appropriately impressed.  The church encircled by the castle, however, is breathtaking, and I was sorry that it wasn't open so that I could look inside.  Not having a camera (crime though it was) gave me a chance to look at my surrounding with a different intent than that of getting the perfect picture.  I walked around the whole church, taking special note of the gargoyles.  If you've never had a chance to see them, let me tell you that each of them is unique, detailed, and also truly disturbing.  I know that gargoyles were originally designed not only as water-spouts, but also to keep evil spirits away - I wondered as I looked at them if they ever kept church-goers away, as well! (Below - not the church I'm talking about - actually, two separate churches in the Old Town Square.  The interior in the first picture below matches the exterior of the church at the beginning of the post.)


I sighed as I took in "the best view in Prague" when my camera battery refused to revive for even one more picture, and then I headed to the Charles Bridge.

I bought an overpriced instant camera and started a mad snapping of pictures in the deepening twilight.  I hardly had time to look at any of the elaborate statues on the bridge, but I did have time to pick up two pairs of gorgeous hand-made earrings as I made my way across.  After a desperate and hurried search for the metro, I made it back to the airport in time to indulge in the requisite Prague beer, a Pilsner, and a bowl of goulash in a smoky bar filled with Greeks waiting for the same flight.  So concludes one of the shortest ever trips to Prague.  I have to go back, of course - a layover doesn't count.

P.S.  Prague is the most organized city ever.  They literally will not let you get lost - there are signs everywhere in the tourist district.  Which is great, because otherwise I probably would have missed my flight!

Monday, April 11, 2011

Plitvice National Lakes Park


I managed to rouse myself from bed early enough on Saturday morning to elicit a grumpy response from my roommate at the hostel, but not quite early enough to catch the 7:30 am bus from Zagreb to Plitvice National Lakes Park.  So, bus ticket in hand for the 10:30, I took the morning to visit Dolac Fruit & Vegetable Market and to sit and have a cappuccino.  (I am so thankful that, as an Italian word, "cappuccino" is understood in cafes everywhere.)  There are some fun market pictures, but I will restrain myself - there are too many here already!

Back at the bus station, I boarded the bus at the platform indicated on my ticket.  Just to make sure, I stood at the front of the bus and asked in a loud voice (addressed to no one in particular) "Is this the bus to Plitvice Lakes?"  When this elicited nothing but blank stares, I tried "Does anyone speak English?"  This resulted in a slow nod from one of the guys seated in front.  Satisfied, I took a seat.  Apparently, traveling to foreign countries inspires moments of complete shamelessness impossible to duplicate elsewhere.

The bus ride took two and a half hours, during which I mostly slept, but I opened my eyes as we neared to watch the countryside pass by.  And I hate to admit it, but it really wasn't pretty.  After the hills of Prague and Greece, Croatia was very flat.  But the park made up for any disappointment in the scenery from the bus window.
There was no stopping my camera once we entered the park, as I embraced the philosophy that if you keep taking pictures, you'll eventually get a good one.  And it worked, too.  For a while I walked along with a guy visiting from Lebanon.  He was in Zagreb on business for several weeks, and he made it clear that he was glad to have someone to talk to in a city of which he had become bored. We did the favor of snapping a few pictures of each other, but I had enjoyed the feeling of being alone in the beautiful scenery and eventually let him go on ahead.
Later, faced with the need to ask directions, I met a group of people my age from London and Croatia.  Then I struck up a conversation with a group of American students who were studying abroad in the coastal city of Dubrovnik.  (My reaction when I heard this was the same as the other fellows when I told them: "You can do that?"  If you didn't already know, Dubrovnik is well-known for its beauty as a vacation spot.)  Note on the first picture below: you can't really tell from my expression in this picture, but in another I look decidedly nervous because I just kicked a rock - and I'm waiting to hear it hit waaaay down below.  I may have almost fallen off of a cliff... 
So admire the view! Admire it!
Aside from being afraid I would miss the return bus - it was late - and having to ask the bus driver is we could make a pit stop (at which point I was fully prepared to use interpretive dance if English didn't work) - it was a marvelous day.  And as an added bonus, I now have enough pictures to wallpaper my apartment next year.